Sunday, 30 December 2012

Carnival in Águilas

The carnival in Águilas was declared as being of 'National Tourist Interest' in 1997, and it takes place before Lent every year between February and March. Somehow myself and my husband have become heavily involved in it!
We were just sitting watching the sunset with a German friend, (Claudia), who occasionally practises her Spanish with us. ( With our combined accents, God knows what the locals think if they're listening!) Anyway after two beers, (like so many things), it seemed like a good idea  at the time.
Carnival here is not as grand as in Rio but it does last for over a week and thousands of people come to watch or take part in the parades which take place on four nights. Even tiny children take part.




The enormous parades go down the main streets which have been lined with tiered seating on either side. The parades start around five-thirty pm and go on until around eleven pm. There is a constant stream of people of all ages, but mostly beautiful girls who are dressed in feathers and very little else. The men reading this blog may like to zoom in on the photo below.

 They often trail a magnificent display behind them or are dancing in choreographed groups. There are some comedy acts and massive floats. The noise vibrates every bone in your body as successive groups compete to drown one another out.

"Would you like to be in the carnival?" Claudia had said. We'd laughed, "Why not?" She'd made a quick phone call. We found that we'd joined a 'Pena' (local carnival group) and were to be in a procession. We wonder the next day how a retired English couple are going to fit in. I'm concerned but my husband says, "IT'LL BE AN EXPERIENCE."
Crowds in the streets.


THE FIRST MEETING/LUNCH
We were told that there was a meeting with lunch so at around 2p.m. we went to a drab looking restaurant. We went through to a back room,and found that sat at tables were around sixty local people chatting loudly in heavy local accents. Everyone was aged 60-75,we discovered that the group is associated with the local 'Third Age Club,' (not to be confused with U3A in England).

 
As the meal progressed sangria, red wine and beer flowed and the waiters continually replaced empty bottles. The meal consisted of, salad, fried squid, pork, fish, two sweet puddings and tea or coffee. This including the drinks had cost us around £10 each. The noise level increased with every course, as excited people shouted conversations at one another down, across and from table to table. Of course the obligatory two TV's were on full belt somewhere in the background of the din. This picture shows the hams hanging up in the restaurant. 
 
There was a raffle in which, (to my embarrassment), I won one of the two huge cardboard boxes. Mine contained, bottled lentils and beans, tinned tomatoes, fizzy drinks, two bottles of cooking oil and a bottle of wine. All essential items if you're on a low income or have unemployed members of the family. (See previous blog for more on this).
When the meal finished Spanish music from the 50's was turned up to full volume and the entertainment began.Women aged 65-75 circulated amongst the tables whilst miming to the music  dancing, flirting, pouting ,flashing their eyes and using their fans to great effect. (Fans are not just items sold to tourists but are frequently used in public if it is hot especially by older women). Everyone clapped, shouted and sang along. It went on a bit...
Then the organiser appeared dressed in drag replete with shocking pink plastic lips and orange wig. It went on a bit...
He kissed my husband. (I recalled that my husband had said, being in the carnival would be an experience). The women sang again... It went on a bit...
We no longer cared. Not the usual sort of meeting.
 THE FIRST FITTING.
We know that we are to wear costumes and have paid a hefty deposit. I can't divulge the theme for our group, as all the themes are top secret apparently. We are told to go to a dress-maker in the back streets of Aguilas about 8p.m. Other members of the group also there made us very welcome and we had our measurements taken. A female member of the group emerged from behind a door clad in a floor length dress sparkling in green and silver lurex strips. The circumference at the bottom was approximately a metre or more, shoulders and a fair amount of busom was on display. The full implications of not only agreeing, but also paying, to dance down the streets late at night, with an audience of thousands is dawning on us.The husband says again, "IT'll BE AN EXPERIENCE." Then the organiser emerges in his costume - a matching green lurex top with a dastardly cape -he resembles a garden gnome. I look at my husband's face, "IT''LL BE AN EXPERIENCE," I tell him. 
 THE FIRST DANCE PRACTICE
We pick up Claudia and her friend Barbara (who is also German but speaks neither Spanish or English), and drive to an address in the back streets of Aguilas again for our first dance practice. It's due to start at 8.30 p.m. At 8.50 someone comes and opens a massive garage door and we enter our 'dance studio.' Eventually around twenty Spanish, two French, and an Austrian arrive. A lot of confusing introductions are made.
 
A woman from the meal who'd mimed and flirted to great effect arrived. Her previously red hair was now purple interspersed with red. Aged about 65 she still made an arresting figure.
The teacher got us into threes and attempted to start to teach us the routine - she had her work cut out. Few paid any attention. Laughter, talking, and directions from varying members of the group filled the room. All this was conducted in heavily accented Spanish. An hour and a half  later we'd attempted to do a thirty second routine. We went home at 10.30 exhausted.
THE SECOND DANCE PRACTICE - More of the same. Everyone but us arrived about twenty minutes late. Only the foreigners listen to the instructions - the group did not progress. Claudia has brought a skirt to practise with, my husband improvises a cloak using a scarf.
 
 
THE THIRD AND FOURTH DANCE PRACTICES - some people are now in time with the music. Many are still getting the moves wrong. All are still talking during the practice and frequently arguing with the teacher, (except for the foreigners). It seems that the teacher has wisely decided to only do a forty second routine. We are now in in December. The carnival is at the beginning of February. We are told that the next practice will be outside on the local industrial estate. I tell my husband he was right - IT IS AN EXPERIENCE.
 
I hope you have enjoyed this blog and not found it boring - let me know please. The next one will be at the beginning  of February - too close for comfort to the carnival!
Espero que disfruites el blog. !Escribeme! El proximo sera los principios de febrero - !muy cerca del carnaval! 
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