Lorca - one year on.

Welcome to 'Writer in Aguilas'. This post is about the beautiful and historic nearby town of Lorca, which you may remember was hit by an earthquake on May 11th of last year (2011). We've made several visits there in the past to see the castle ruins which dominate the town and to wander around its narrow streets which are  crammed with historic buildings and churches - not to mention a whole lot of atmospheric bars and pretty squares to sit in whilst nursing a glass of the local wine.

Sometimes old and new are juxtaposed a little too closely for comfort.

Last year at Easter our lovely Spanish friends (Juan and Hortensia) showed us around the town before we watched the fantastic Easter processions with them. Juan is employed by the council and that particular visit found us to be not only virtually the only foreigners present but also to be watching the processions from the same prestigious bank of seats as the mayor and other local dignitaries. We were even seen on the local TV station!       


                              

                                     Then, just 3 weeks after that visit the earthquake struck.

The first tremor measured 4.5 on the Richter scale and hit at 17.05 local time.The main shock of 5.1 struck at 18.47. and occurred just one kilometre under the surface, Tremors were observed not only in Aguilas but also hundreds of miles from the epicentre, in Alicante and Madrid. In total it released a surface energy equivalent to over 200 tonnes of TNT.
Nine people were killed and more than three hundred injured. Three thousand people slept out in tents for over a week. Lines of cars lay devastated under rubble.To our horror we watched live pictures on the TV and saw a massive bell fall from its tower almost hitting the reporter. (You can see this on the Internet). Thankfully no-one we knew was injured.
Many people who have holiday homes in Aguilas are living in them permanently since the earthquake.On asking a neighbour if her home had been damaged, she replied quietly, "There is no home in Lorca that hasn't been damaged." Her own and those of her elderly neighbours has been demolished. Many people were unable to retrieve any possessions and those with no house insurance have lost their homes forever.

 Our friends were keen for us to visit and see the damage for ourselves eight months on. At first sight we didn't think much had changed because large plastic sheets and hoardings are in-between the buildings hiding the demolished sites behind them. It was only when we looked around with Juan that we saw the devastation. They live on the sixth floor in a twelve storey block of flats. We went down into the basement with them and saw the massive cracks there and on the ground floor. The people living on the first three floors are still not allowed to return. In the immediate aftermath every house was inspected and colour coded by a splash of paint on the outside; red for 'dangerous,' green for 'safe,' they are still to be seen on every building, a chilling reminder of the horror that happened that day.
Everyone we met was so pleased that we had gone to visit. They said that many people were frightened to come. Although the entire region lies on a fault this was the first serious earthquake in many years.
The inside of every church is damaged where the roofs fell in. Many statues are now headless and the facades of buildings are supported by great concrete staves or by scaffolding. However the people are determined and resilient, shops are open for business.

Juan took us to a local bodega to sample some wine. There was nowhere to sit so the owner hastily brought out chairs for us and a barrel for a table and we were set up in the street, people, cars and mopeds winding their way past us! Close by wine was being decanted from massive barrels. When we remarked on how good the wine was Juan immediately bought us a bottle. We find this is typical of Spanish people's generosity.



 (In the past we have been given huge bags of oranges, mandarins, lemons and artichokes.We've also had a plate of figs, and recently a delicious portion of the lentil stew that our neighbour was cooking for her husband's lunch! We have learnt that if we say that we like anything our Spanish friends and neighbours will insist on giving it to us).




Back in the street, I suspect that these chaps knew I was taking their photo. Or perhaps the wine wasn't to their taste.




Then we were off to another bar for a drink.The bar had moved location due to the earthquake but it was still packed and serving what looked like a very good paella. We were starting to lose our command of Spanish by now!













We went back to Juan's flat where we had that typical Spanish dish Fondue! - it was excellent, and a little more local wine. (Our Spanish conversational skills were going downhill even  more rapidly than the wine - but we didn't care anymore!)
   On a serious note when the earthquake struck our friends' daughter was having an English lesson in the block of flats opposite. We looked across the road - all that was left was a plot of land. Luckily when the first tremor happened most people including our friends went out into the streets. They said it sounded like a massive explosion and that everything shook including the glasses in their cabinet - amazingly not one was damaged.
   The people of Lorca have been promised millions of Euros from the government and some rebuilding has started but Spain's economic state is worse than Britain's. Unemployment is at 23% and youth unemployment at 40 % Many people may never get their homes back and all shake their heads when asked, 'How long before it's rebuilt?'
   In spite of all this the people are determined and outwardly cheerful. The Easter celebrations this year were as breath-taking as ever and the castle has re-opened for business.There are lots of interesting and beautiful buildings and museums to see and it's still a lovely town. If you have the opportunity, please show your support by visiting - you will be well rewarded.

The next blog will be in a fortnights time - Sunday 3rd June. It will feature a dying craft and an English garden party in Murcia.
 I'm delighted to find that people are viewing this blog from as far afield as Russia and the USA. I would be very pleased to receive comments either via the link or at  writerinaguilas@gmail.com 
                                      Thanks for your company, Cathy.

The day of Dolores

Hi and welcome,
this blog is about our visit to a festival in Aguilas - the Day of Dolores, (the virgin of suffering.)
The majority of people in Spain are still nominally Catholic, but the number of 'practising Catholics' is diminishing. However every town and village in Spain has their 'own Saint' and thus their own Fiesta Day - so you could go to a fiesta somewhere in Spain every day of the year! They are very popular as everyone, except essential services (such as hospitals and bars) gets a day off.

 We arrive at the Plaza de Espana around mid-day on a beautiful, sunny day, to find it packed. Waiters are dashing across the road with trays of drinks and tapas. After about an hour people start arriving in traditional Murcian dress; the women in blouses and beautifully embroidered full skirts in primary colours with matching aprons and shawls. Coloured laces criss-cross their white stockinged legs.

   The young women are exquisite. Their glossy dark hair is piled up on their heads, intricately plaited or curled, and held in place with coloured ribbons, combs and sparkling beads. With them are children, toddlers and even tiny babies, all in costume from their minute shoes upwards.

Men too are in costume. Youths with studs in their chins and spiky hair wear royal blue silken trousers, with white or coloured tunics. They chat and laugh with their friends, they seem to be proud to be taking part and having fun.

   The noise level rises and chatting people drift in and out of the church where a mass is taking place.Traditional music blasts out of speakers. When the mass finishes, people queue airport style around blue velvet covered barriers, to hand bunches of flowers to a man who is cramming them into a metal tower fifteen foot up in to the air.

   The speeches start as the marching band arrives playing drums, cornets and trumpets. There isn't enough room for them to reach the stage so they play in the street instead. Ornate and large displays of flowers are presented by various groups - cue applause and shouts of "Viva" from the crowd. The noise level is tremendous, the atmosphere a bit like being at a very good-natured football match.

 An enormous statue of the Virgin is carried out from the interior of the church to the doorway and the square resounds with  cries of, "Viva la Virgin de Dolores!" A group from the local village sets up on stage, (aged from three to what looks like ninety three,) they are equipped with guitars and castanets. A traditional saeta - a lament is sung. Even the crowd pause to listen to its chilling sadness. Then there are displays of traditional dancing and more shouts of, "Viva" from the crowd. More chairs and tables are brought out of bars - the waiters activity is frenetic!

    By early afternoon people are staring to drift away. After all the Virgin will  be carried out properly and paraded around the town with attendants and the band playing later tonight. This is just the start of a series of parades that take place throughout Easter week.

Interestingly this isn't an event put on for tourists - there are no more than a dozen of us foreigners present. It's simply a celebration by local inhabitants, everyone enjoying the colour and noise. It makes me wonder if we're losing something in England with our headlong rush into modernity. Soon even the Morris Men will be gone.What do you think? I'd love to have your comments. (If the comments link is difficult my web address is writerinaguilas@gmail.com )

In a weeks time, it will be a year since the earthquake in nearby Lorca, so in my next blog, ( Sunday 20th May approximately,) I'll be sharing my recent visit there with you.

Thanks for joining me.